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Got any Jam? (aka Phon Savan and the Plain of Jars) |

A bit off the beaten track, along winding mountain-side roads, the journey to Phon Savan and the Plain of Jars is well worth it. A still unsolved archeological mystery, the stone jars which picturesquely litter the plains around Phon Savan are rather less pleasantly thought to be funerary urns, where bodies were placed in the foetal position in the larger jars to decompose before being cremated years later and moved to smaller urns. If you try not to bear this in mind though, the effect is amazing, the experience marred only by the reminder of the red and white markers identifying those areas cleared of mines and cluster bombs, and those not, in a country where more bombs were dropped by the US than in the whole of the second World War. The extensive scrap metal collections of shells and artillery outside every guest house testifies to this.

Locations Visited: Phone Savan

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